Glass & Dew

Hyaluronic acid

aka Sodium hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Sodium acetylated hyaluronate, HA

The short answer

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that draws in and holds water, known for making skin look and feel plumper and more hydrated. Large forms stay on the surface while smaller fragments reach a little deeper in lab tests, but no one size has been shown to be best.

Known for
A water-holding humectant that plumps and hydrates the skin's surface layers.
Suits
Dehydrated skinDry skinOily skinSensitive skin
Evidence
moderate

Check first

  • Very few people need to avoid it. Some find very small (hydrolysed) HA stings.
  • In very dry air, it works best sealed under a moisturiser.

What it goes with

Pairs well

  • NiacinamideGentle and complementary.
  • CeramidesA moisturiser on top seals in the water HA attracts.
  • GlycerinAnother humectant and a classic essence partner.
  • RetinolHelps offset dryness from stronger actives.

Keep apart

No known clashes. Still patch test anything new.

How it works

Hyaluronic acid is a water-loving sugar molecule that acts as a humectant, drawing water into the skin's surface. [1]

Size matters for where it sits. Large HA mostly stays on the surface and forms a moisture-holding film, while smaller fragments passed the outermost layer in lab tests on human skin samples. [1] [3]

In people, small trials found HA creams improved hydration and elasticity over 30 to 60 days. [1] [2] Claims that 'nano' HA rebuilds collagen aren't supported.

How to use it

  • Morning, night or both, on clean, slightly damp skin.
  • Follow straight away with a moisturiser to help hold the water in.
  • Layer it before oils and creams.
  • More isn't better: trials used 0.1 to 1.5%, and higher amounts can feel sticky.
  • Australian climate tip: in humid summers, a light HA serum or gel cream may be enough. In dry winters or air-conditioned offices, layer it under a richer cream.

FAQ

No study has shown this. It's a popular theory about humectants, and the fix is simple anyway: apply HA to damp skin and follow with a moisturiser, especially in dry or air-conditioned conditions.

Products with hyaluronic acid

Each links to Australian stockists, with the price range across shops.

Sources

General information only, not medical advice.