Glass & Dew

Retinol

aka Retinol, Retinal (Retinaldehyde), Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR, Granactive Retinoid), Vitamin A, Cosmetic retinoids

The short answer

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that your skin slowly converts into retinoic acid, the same molecule as prescription tretinoin, which makes it gentler but slower. In a controlled study, 0.4% retinol improved the look of fine wrinkles over 24 weeks, so plan on at least 12 weeks, night-only use and SPF50+ every morning.

Known for
Vitamin A skincare for smoother, clearer-looking skin, if you build up slowly.
Helps with
Fine linesRough or uneven textureSun-damaged-looking skin
Evidence
moderate

Check first

Caution: Pregnancy cautionCaution: Dryness and flaking at firstCaution: Sun sensitivityCaution: Night use only
  • You are pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding and haven't talked it through with your GP, obstetrician or midwife, because Australian sources differ on cosmetic retinol.
  • You already use a prescription or pharmacist-only retinoid such as tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene or trifarotene; don't add a second retinoid on top.
  • Your skin is sunburnt, broken or freshly treated after a peel, laser or waxing.
  • You get swelling, a spreading rash or stinging beyond where you applied it; stop and see a GP or pharmacist.

What it goes with

Pairs well

  • CeramidesMoisturising before or after retinol eases dryness, and DermNet notes creams are the least irritating retinoid format.
  • SPF50+ sunscreenRetinoids increase sun sensitivity, so daily sunscreen is part of using them, not an optional extra.
  • NiacinamideIn an open-label study of a retinol and niacinamide serum, early flaking settled by week 10, although niacinamide's own role wasn't isolated.
  • Vitamin CUse vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night to get both without piling irritation onto the same routine.
  • Tranexamic acidA clinic guide lists low-strength retinol at night as a helpful partner in tranexamic acid routines for uneven tone.
  • PanthenolA humectant that helps skin feel comfortable while it adjusts; no interaction is known.

Keep apart

  • Avoid: AHA (alpha hydroxy acids)The American Academy of Dermatology advises against exfoliating while using retinol because dryness adds up. Alternate nights instead.
  • Avoid: BHA (salicylic acid)Same irritation-stacking issue as AHAs; keep salicylic acid to different nights or the morning.
  • Avoid: PHA (polyhydroxy acids)Gentler than AHAs, but still an exfoliant, so keep it to different nights while your skin adjusts.
  • Avoid: Another retinoidThe adapalene product information says other retinoids should not be used at the same time. One retinoid at a time.
  • Avoid: Benzoyl peroxideThe 'it destroys retinoids' rule comes from conventional tretinoin; adapalene was not degraded and retinol wasn't tested. Benzoyl peroxide in the morning and retinol at night avoids the question.
  • Avoid: Vitamin CNot a chemical clash. Both can irritate, so the fix is timing: vitamin C in the morning, retinol at night.

How it works

Retinol is one of several vitamin A forms used in skincare. Your skin converts them step by step: retinyl esters become retinol, retinol becomes retinal (retinaldehyde), and retinal becomes retinoic acid, the form skin cells actually respond to and the same molecule as prescription tretinoin [1][2]. Each extra step makes an ingredient gentler but slower, which is why one review describes retinol as about 20 times less potent than tretinoin [1].

Because of that conversion, cosmetic strengths look low on the label. A 2023 review notes that around 0.4% retinol is needed to get results similar to topical retinoic acid, with less redness, scaling, dryness and itching [2]. Retinal sits one step closer to the active form: in a Korean study of 40 women, 0.05% and 0.1% retinal creams improved texture and hydration over three months and were well tolerated, although the study had no plain-cream comparison [4].

The best-known controlled trial applied 0.4% retinol to one arm and a plain lotion to the other in 36 older adults, up to three times a week for 24 weeks. Fine wrinkling improved on the retinol side and barely changed on the plain side [3]. In a second small trial of 44 people, retinol 0.5% and the plant compound bakuchiol 0.5% both improved the look of wrinkles and pigmentation over 12 weeks, with more scaling and stinging on retinol [5]. These studies were in older or sun-damaged skin; we found no trial of cosmetic retinol on the faces of women aged 18 to 35.

Early redness, peeling and dryness have a name: retinoid dermatitis [6]. Skin often adjusts within about two weeks [1]. Clinicians also describe a 'purge', more pimples in the first couple of months for breakout-prone skin [7], but this hasn't been studied in trials. Retinoids also increase sun sensitivity, which is why they are a night-time step [6].

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) is a newer ester of retinoic acid that Australian rules allow in skincare at up to 0.5% [14]. It is often marketed as working directly on skin, but we couldn't find a peer-reviewed human trial, so consider it less studied than retinol.

How to use it

  • Use a pea-sized amount for your whole face, on clean, dry skin, at night [7].
  • Weeks 1 to 2: two or three nights a week. Weeks 3 to 6: every other night if your skin feels comfortable. After that, nightly use is optional; the main trial applied it up to three times a week [3].
  • Moisturise before or after. A lab study funded by a moisturiser maker found a moisturiser layer before or after didn't reduce retinol's activity, but a full three-layer 'sandwich' did [8].
  • Wear SPF50+ every morning, all year round [6][15].
  • Keep AHAs, BHAs and PHAs to different nights, and add one new active at a time [16].
  • Strengths in studies: retinol 0.4% to 0.5% [3][5] and retinal 0.05% to 0.1% [4]. If you're new, starting lower is sensible.
  • Give it at least 12 weeks before judging results [6][7].

FAQ

Retinal is one conversion step closer to retinoic acid, the form skin responds to, so lower percentages are used [1]. In a Korean study, 0.05% and 0.1% retinal creams were well tolerated over three months [4], and both forms are gentler than prescription tretinoin.

Products with retinol

Each links to Australian stockists, with the price range across shops.

Sources

General information only, not medical advice.