aka Retinol, Retinal (Retinaldehyde), Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR, Granactive Retinoid), Vitamin A, Cosmetic retinoids
Retinol is a form of vitamin A that your skin slowly converts into retinoic acid, the same molecule as prescription tretinoin, which makes it gentler but slower. In a controlled study, 0.4% retinol improved the look of fine wrinkles over 24 weeks, so plan on at least 12 weeks, night-only use and SPF50+ every morning.
Retinol is one of several vitamin A forms used in skincare. Your skin converts them step by step: retinyl esters become retinol, retinol becomes retinal (retinaldehyde), and retinal becomes retinoic acid, the form skin cells actually respond to and the same molecule as prescription tretinoin [1][2]. Each extra step makes an ingredient gentler but slower, which is why one review describes retinol as about 20 times less potent than tretinoin [1].
Because of that conversion, cosmetic strengths look low on the label. A 2023 review notes that around 0.4% retinol is needed to get results similar to topical retinoic acid, with less redness, scaling, dryness and itching [2]. Retinal sits one step closer to the active form: in a Korean study of 40 women, 0.05% and 0.1% retinal creams improved texture and hydration over three months and were well tolerated, although the study had no plain-cream comparison [4].
The best-known controlled trial applied 0.4% retinol to one arm and a plain lotion to the other in 36 older adults, up to three times a week for 24 weeks. Fine wrinkling improved on the retinol side and barely changed on the plain side [3]. In a second small trial of 44 people, retinol 0.5% and the plant compound bakuchiol 0.5% both improved the look of wrinkles and pigmentation over 12 weeks, with more scaling and stinging on retinol [5]. These studies were in older or sun-damaged skin; we found no trial of cosmetic retinol on the faces of women aged 18 to 35.
Early redness, peeling and dryness have a name: retinoid dermatitis [6]. Skin often adjusts within about two weeks [1]. Clinicians also describe a 'purge', more pimples in the first couple of months for breakout-prone skin [7], but this hasn't been studied in trials. Retinoids also increase sun sensitivity, which is why they are a night-time step [6].
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) is a newer ester of retinoic acid that Australian rules allow in skincare at up to 0.5% [14]. It is often marketed as working directly on skin, but we couldn't find a peer-reviewed human trial, so consider it less studied than retinol.
How to use it
Retinal is one conversion step closer to retinoic acid, the form skin responds to, so lower percentages are used [1]. In a Korean study, 0.05% and 0.1% retinal creams were well tolerated over three months [4], and both forms are gentler than prescription tretinoin.
Each links to Australian stockists, with the price range across shops.
General information only, not medical advice.