Glass & Dew

Propolis

aka Propolis, Propolis Extract, Bee propolis, Bee glue

The short answer

Propolis is a resin bees make from tree sap to seal their hives, and K-beauty uses it in glowy serums and ampoules. A few small human trials hint at benefits for breakouts, but it's also a recognised skin allergen, especially if you react to fragrance or balsam of Peru.

Known for
Bee glue made from tree resins: K-beauty's glowy-serum hero, and a known allergen.
Helps with
Blemish-prone skinA glowy, comfortable finish
Evidence
limited

Check first

Caution: Known contact allergenCaution: Bee-derived (not vegan)Caution: Cross-reacts with balsam of Peru
  • You've reacted to propolis, beeswax or other bee products.
  • You're allergic to balsam of Peru, fragrance mix, colophony (rosin, found in some sticking plasters) or poplar.
  • You've had eczema or swelling around your lips or mouth.
  • You avoid animal-derived ingredients; propolis isn't vegan.

What it goes with

Pairs well

  • NiacinamideA common K-beauty pairing in glow serums; no interaction data either way.
  • Hyaluronic acidAdds hydration; no clash known.

Keep apart

  • Avoid: Several bee products at onceIf you're unsure how your skin tolerates propolis, avoid layering it with honey, royal jelly or beeswax products until you know.

How it works

Propolis is the glue honeybees make to build, repair and protect their hives, made from partly digested tree resins mixed with beeswax [1][10]. More than 800 compounds have been reported in it, and its make-up varies with region and season: temperate poplar-type, Brazilian green, red and other types differ chemically, which makes it hard to standardise [8].

Australian propolis is unusual. University of the Sunshine Coast researchers found propolis from subtropical eastern Australia had a chemical profile distinct from European poplar propolis; in the lab it killed Staphylococcus aureus but had no effect on Klebsiella or Candida yeast [6]. Kangaroo Island propolis comes from a native sword sedge and contains compounds not described before [7].

The best human trial tested a combination. In a double-blind study of 60 people aged 14 to 34 with mild to moderate acne, a cream with 20% propolis, tea tree oil and aloe vera reduced the acne severity index by 66.7% over 30 days, compared with 49.7% for an erythromycin cream, and was compared with a placebo too [4]. Because of the tea tree and aloe, the benefit can't be credited to propolis alone. A meta-analysis on wounds included 43 studies, but 40 were in animals [5].

Allergy is the best-documented fact. In European patch-test studies, 1.2% to 6.6% of people tested react to propolis, and it frequently cross-reacts with balsam of Peru, colophony (rosin) and fragrance mix [1]. In a Swedish study of 722 people being investigated for dermatitis, 6.2% reacted to at least one propolis sample, and 43% of those also reacted to balsam of Peru [2]. Reviewers note that propolis cosmetics are an infrequent cause of new sensitisation; many reactions are in people already allergic to fragrance [3].

How to use it

  • Use propolis ampoules, serums, essences or creams after cleansing and before moisturiser, morning or night.
  • Patch test for 48 to 72 hours first, because allergic reactions can take hours to days to appear [1].
  • Stop if you notice lip swelling, eczema around the mouth or facial redness [1].
  • In the morning, finish with SPF50+.

FAQ

A 60-person double-blind trial found a cream with propolis, tea tree oil and aloe outperformed an antibiotic cream over 30 days [4], but because it was a combination, propolis's own effect is unclear.

Products with propolis

Each links to Australian stockists, with the price range across shops.

Sources

General information only, not medical advice.