aka Propolis, Propolis Extract, Bee propolis, Bee glue
Propolis is a resin bees make from tree sap to seal their hives, and K-beauty uses it in glowy serums and ampoules. A few small human trials hint at benefits for breakouts, but it's also a recognised skin allergen, especially if you react to fragrance or balsam of Peru.
Propolis is the glue honeybees make to build, repair and protect their hives, made from partly digested tree resins mixed with beeswax [1][10]. More than 800 compounds have been reported in it, and its make-up varies with region and season: temperate poplar-type, Brazilian green, red and other types differ chemically, which makes it hard to standardise [8].
Australian propolis is unusual. University of the Sunshine Coast researchers found propolis from subtropical eastern Australia had a chemical profile distinct from European poplar propolis; in the lab it killed Staphylococcus aureus but had no effect on Klebsiella or Candida yeast [6]. Kangaroo Island propolis comes from a native sword sedge and contains compounds not described before [7].
The best human trial tested a combination. In a double-blind study of 60 people aged 14 to 34 with mild to moderate acne, a cream with 20% propolis, tea tree oil and aloe vera reduced the acne severity index by 66.7% over 30 days, compared with 49.7% for an erythromycin cream, and was compared with a placebo too [4]. Because of the tea tree and aloe, the benefit can't be credited to propolis alone. A meta-analysis on wounds included 43 studies, but 40 were in animals [5].
Allergy is the best-documented fact. In European patch-test studies, 1.2% to 6.6% of people tested react to propolis, and it frequently cross-reacts with balsam of Peru, colophony (rosin) and fragrance mix [1]. In a Swedish study of 722 people being investigated for dermatitis, 6.2% reacted to at least one propolis sample, and 43% of those also reacted to balsam of Peru [2]. Reviewers note that propolis cosmetics are an infrequent cause of new sensitisation; many reactions are in people already allergic to fragrance [3].
How to use it
A 60-person double-blind trial found a cream with propolis, tea tree oil and aloe outperformed an antibiotic cream over 30 days [4], but because it was a combination, propolis's own effect is unclear.
Each links to Australian stockists, with the price range across shops.
General information only, not medical advice.