aka Salicylic Acid, BHA, Beta hydroxy acid, Betaine Salicylate (related salicylate), Willow bark extract (plant source of salicylates)
BHA (salicylic acid) dissolves in oil, so it can work inside pores where blackheads and congestion form, which is why it suits oily and blemish-prone skin. Leave-on cosmetics usually contain 0.5% to 2%, and it's a different ingredient from betaine salicylate, the gentler-marketed version common in K-beauty pads.
Salicylic acid is fat-soluble, which sets it apart from AHAs: it mixes with skin oils and the oil inside pores, so it suits oily skin [1][2]. Chemists point out that calling it a 'beta hydroxy acid' is technically incorrect because of its ring structure [1], but BHA is the name everyone searches for.
Rather than dissolving keratin, it loosens the connections between skin cells [2][3]. For blemish-prone skin, DermNet describes it as slowing cell shedding inside follicles and helping break up the plugs that form blackheads [3]. Reviews also describe a calming effect at 0.5% to 5% [2].
Australian use data compiled by AICIS show leave-on cosmetics at 0.5% to 3%, rinse-off products at 1% to 5% and peels up to 30%; the EU and Canada cap most cosmetics at 2% [4]. Peel-strength studies, including one in 25 people with darker skin, reported good results with few side effects [2], but we found no study measuring how much difference everyday 0.5% to 2% products make.
Unlike glycolic acid, 2% salicylic acid did not increase sunburn cells in the study where 10% glycolic acid did [1]. That's reassuring, not a reason to skip sunscreen.
Betaine salicylate, common in K-beauty toner pads, is a related salicylate, but we found no published study comparing it with salicylic acid [6]. The popular rule that 4% betaine salicylate equals about 2% salicylic acid is a rough chemistry estimate without a cited source [7].
How to use it
We don't know: no published study compares them [6]. The '4% equals 2% salicylic acid' rule is a rough estimate without a cited source [7].
Each links to Australian stockists, with the price range across shops.
General information only, not medical advice.