Glass & Dew

Centella asiatica

aka Cica, Gotu kola, Tiger grass, Indian pennywort, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside

The short answer

Centella is a leafy herb used for around 3,000 years in Asian and African traditional medicine, known for helping irritated or recovering skin feel calmer and more comfortable. Its strongest evidence is in wound and scar care, while evidence for everyday redness is mostly lab-based.

Known for
A soothing herb extract that helps calm irritated skin and support barrier repair.
Suits
Sensitive skin
Helps with
Irritated skinWeakened barrierAfter treatments
Evidence
moderate

Check first

  • Known allergy to centella or gotu kola. Reactions are rare but have been reported.
  • If fragranced products bother you: several reported reactions involved fragrance or essential oils in the same product, so check for those flags.
  • Centella is in the carrot and celery family. If you react to those plants, patch test first.
  • 'Cica' on the label doesn't guarantee much centella. Check where it sits in the ingredient list.

What it goes with

Pairs well

  • CeramidesAll three support the skin barrier and are often combined in products for sensitive skin.
  • NiacinamideBoth are calming and barrier-supporting, with no known clash.
  • Hyaluronic acidAdds hydration alongside centella's calming role.
  • RetinolOften used as a comfort layer to keep skin calm while using stronger actives.

Keep apart

No known clashes. Still patch test anything new.

How it works

Centella's main active compounds are four triterpenes: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. [1]

In lab and animal studies, these support the cells that build collagen, strengthen newly formed skin and dampen inflammatory signals. [1] [4]

In people, studies have been small and varied, but showed improvements in hydration, water loss, elasticity and the look of scars. [4] A systematic review of five trials on burns, ulcers, scars, grafts and post-laser skin pointed to benefit, though the trials were too different to combine. [3]

How to use it

  • Morning and night. It's gentle enough for daily use.
  • Apply thinnest to thickest: toner, ampoule or serum, then cream or balm.
  • In the morning, finish with SPF50+ sunscreen.
  • Patch test first, especially if fragranced products have bothered you before.

FAQ

Mostly. 'Cica' is a marketing name for products built around centella or its active compounds, such as madecassoside and asiaticoside. Check the ingredient list to see how much centella a product actually contains. [1]

Products with centella asiatica

Each links to Australian stockists, with the price range across shops.

Sources

General information only, not medical advice.