Panthenol

Panthenol is a stable alcohol form of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). It attracts water, so it works as a humectant [1]. Applied to skin, it's absorbed and converted to pantothenic acid, part of coenzyme A, which skin cells need to function [2]. It has been used on skin since Bepanthen ointment was developed in 1944 [3].

In double-blind studies, skin deliberately irritated with a harsh detergent recovered its barrier faster with seven days of dexpanthenol cream than with a placebo cream, and 2.5% and 5% formulas improved hydration [1][3].

After professional treatments, results are good but not unique. In four Bayer-funded trials of 132 women after lasers and a peel, dexpanthenol products reduced water loss about as well as petroleum jelly, with no difference at any timepoint, although redness settled faster after an ablative laser and the dexpanthenol products felt nicer to use [4]. A separate trial of 38 people after CO2 laser found faster surface recovery than with petroleum jelly [2].

For dry, eczema-prone skin, a review led by Bayer authors describes dexpanthenol as a maintenance moisturiser to use at least twice daily between flares [1]. Most of panthenol's evidence comes from one company, which is worth knowing.

Allergy is uncommon but real. Among people referred for patch testing, positive reactions to panthenol have risen from 0.2% to 0.7% to about 1.2% in recent series, often from products marketed as hypoallergenic [5].