Mugwort

Mugwort is the common name for several Artemisia species. Korean essences such as I'm From's list Artemisia princeps [4]; in Korean, mugwort is ssuk [1], and in Japan Artemisia princeps is called yomogi [2]. Artemisia species contain essential-oil compounds such as cineole and camphor, sesquiterpene lactones and flavonoids, and lab studies report antioxidant and antibacterial activity [10].

We found no human trial of Artemisia princeps skincare. The only human data are for a related species, Artemisia annua: 25 women with self-reported sensitive skin used a toner, essence and cream containing it for four weeks and reported less water loss, more hydration and less visible redness. There was no comparison group, the products were made by the authors' employer, and the journal isn't a mainstream dermatology title [8].

Lab work points the same way but stays in the lab. In a 3D lab-grown skin model of eczema, 1% Artemisia annua extract restored barrier proteins and lowered inflammatory signals; the authors, who include cosmetics company researchers, say the work was done only in lab models and call for early clinical trials [9].

The best-evidenced fact about mugwort is its family. It belongs to the daisy (Compositae) family, whose sesquiterpene lactones are well-known contact allergens, and DermNet advises people with Compositae allergy not to use cosmetics containing these plants [5]. ASCIA lists wormwood among daisy-family herbal medicines and notes that plant extracts in cosmetics can cause reactions in people sensitised to daisy-family pollen [6].

Its cultural story is rich. In Korea's founding myth, a bear ate garlic and ssuk for 100 days to become a woman, the mother of Dangun [1]. Ganghwa Island's yakssuk is a protected geographical indication [11], and I'm From's essence says its mugwort comes from Ganghwa [4]. In Japan, yomogi colours kusa mochi rice cakes for Girls' Day, and dried mugwort is the 'moxa' burned in moxibustion [2][3].